37~Discovering Northern BC: More Than Meets the Eye

Back on the mainland in Prince Rupert, Cecile and Tristan camped in the back yard of the hostel and I was in a mixed dorm of 6 with no bunks and cosy singles. I liked that it would be our home for the next few days. There is a decent amount of traffic in this hostel; many use it as a stopover between ferries and arrive late, leaving early. One guy works here, up in Prince Rupert, and uses this as a base as he actually lives in Vancouver. He would later become known as a little annoying and also a prawn thief. 

A sunset kayaking trip was the plan after the reunited loves collected me from my perch outside a cafe spot where I was engrossed in conversation with a local fishermen. He was heavily tattooed and in sunglasses and a hat. Young and smooth talking. Well, Tristan later tells me he was- apparently he more or less asked me out (in a slick way, Tristan commended him on this) and I was oblivious. I reckon though he was a bit of a wayward one, probably known around these parts and I would have much preferred an early night to a date, anyway. I met a lovely young girl from Germany and we had a right big hike together. She had been wwoofing in Alberta and was heading to the Yukon to wwoof there. She is only 22. The hike we did was 6km (we could have done the full 22km but opted to snack and fall asleep on the beach at 8km and then headed back). We both said we felt like we were in the world of the hobbits.

While I cooked dinner one night, I watched as a man made a bloody steak and boiled a broccoli whole. He ate the broccoli in a rather neanderthal manner; holding the trunk and gnawing on the florets. Well, at least he was getting his food groups covered, I reasoned. He was quite forward in his conversation. He was from Utah and had an issue with Mormons as his ex-wife was one and he no longer sees his children as a result of this. I was unclear of the details. He talked fast and in a thick accent. Cecile, who is so wonderfully patient and interested in others, attempted to engage with him and got a little lost with his endless monologue and quips- at one point he jokes he has had a brain lobotomy and I see Cecile’s confusion as he laughs at his own jokes. She says to him- “How am I to understand these words you use?” We are both a little befuddled by this character. I am in the dorm and I know he is leaving that day- apparently hitching his way to his next stop, although that seems yet undecided. He comes into the room with a brown envelope in hand. “When will you next be in England?” He asserts. He has something he would like me to give to the Queen. Well, probably not until next spring, I stutter. I guess he thinks  a) I am a princess or b) all Brits drink tea and know the Queen. I am guessing it to b). It is a petition that he has created. He wants a politician that held his hand in a gun position to be held accountable and go to prison (I think!). I do not really understand it. Tristan reads it carefully and concludes that the guy is a total nut job. Fortunately, I did not know this as I slumbered so soundly 3 beds away from him…

And there were some awesome people there. Eric Beckstead and Innes (my next door neighbour bed busy for a few days)  stood out. Tristan was worn out form work and he was sick. He needed rest and told Cecile to join me. Cecile and I headed for a walk, taking the lovely, talented Eric Beckstead. 

We came across some makeshift swings and had our own Wild Rumpus in the forest. Eric photographing us in yoga positions on the log, climbing trees and swinging too. 

He pulls some crazy stunts, photographing them and creating videos as he goes along. He had been on the harbour in Prince Rupert the previous night and showed us an amazing shot of him backflipping into the water. His photography is stunning and so is his spirit. So open and full of kindness, enthusiasm and emotional intuitive and intelligent. He suffered from a debilitating skiing injury in his teen years and has discovered yoga, a passion and talent in photography, initially of extreme skiing and snow sports. Evidently, he still dabbles in the extreme…Innes had been kayaking with Eric and said that he had terrified her- she was to take the photograph as he did a back flip from a tree. That crazy kayaking excursion (they got back late and apparently adventured far- her hands were blistered) coupled with a very fast hike paced by myself had wiped poor Innes out. She declined coming to the coffee shop to hear some live music with Cecile and I, instead opting for bed! I took Cecile to my favourite mural for a photo shoot on our night out. 

Tristan was sleeping and needed more recovery time; we would be Smithers bound tomorrow. Picking up a couch surfer from the ferry, giving him a ride to Smithers and possibly staying with him. Tristan a well travelled Australian and a couch surfer enthusiast, had been in contact with a Smithers boy and he reckoned he was pretty sound. All being well, we could maybe couch surf a night with him. Our other two nights we would airbnb it at a pretty cool looking ranch. Affordable purely as there were three of us. 

Nathan turns out to be a real gem. Our couch surfer pal is quite the man. He is HUGE. AND A LUMBERJACK (of sorts). Wow. He is clever, a gentleman, witty and admits he is holding true to the Canadian man stereotype with his felling of trees and plaid shirt. He is fresh from a bit of a funny trip in Haida Gwaii and we head to Smithers, us gals in the front and the boys in te back. We go and see the ‘cabin’ that Nathan and his dad built. An amazing 2 level house, made from logs chopped by the men, in the middle of the woods, on his family land. 

He takes us to Main Street (he knows everyone and there is a lot of hand shaking and pleasantries) and we arrange to meet at the Rodeo later on. We head to our Ranch. It is quite the Ranch. Monty Bassett, a local documentarist/filmmaker and his artist wife, Pashan live here. She is very spiritual and we have some great chats. I really like this woman. She makes us amazing breakfasts and we have the most beautiful, view of the mountain and the glacier, right on our doorstep!

It is breathtaking. We hike, we hit the rodeo. I join a yoga class. We find great juice and food.

On one hike, Nathan turns round to offer me a hand over a fallen tree and I dare not look him in the eye. In my mind it is a princely gesture and his huge forearm and offered hand too much like a prince in a cartoon- even I feel dainty and demure! He is very awesome and is off to Haiti to work; this guy does not just chop wood. He gives me some tips about my trip to Arizona and Utah. 

Tristan and Cecile cook a dinner at Nathan’s; this, I learn, is part of the couch surfing etiquette. Sonia joins us, who is a Smither’s pal of Nathan’s. She is here for the summer but lives and works in India. Nathan is such a gent he is willing to give up his bed for me but I insist I will be fine on the floor, in the living room. The vast windows give you a vista of sky, mountain and tree tops and the fire is still gently burning. I have Nathan’s socks and extra blankets and reckon I have the best sleeping spot of all. Cecile suffers- Tristan, still sick, snores and wants the window open. She is cold and awake. I slumber in a perfectly blissful princess like snooze. 

We have a big brekkie the next morning before we head back to Terrace to catch our flight to Vancouver. Nathan has his favourite breakfast mug that makes him smile every morning. He is s great guy. 

Cecile and I reflect on the plane about how much has happened. It is the last time I will see her. She flies back to Switzerland in a few days and does not know what turn life will take. She too quit her job and headed out on an adventure. She has had that and found love which adds a whole new dimension into the mix. I hope to go to Switzerland one day, to see my friend Cecile. I ask her if chocolate comes out of the taps there. Yes, it does, she tells me. Good hiking too? You bet. Perfect. 

Northern B.C., what a treat! A total blast and many unexpected delights.