9~You Will Never Forget the Little Town of Apeldoorn

Rain hammers down in the little town of Apeldoorn. Apeldoorn (translation: apple thorn), Eve’s hometown; exactly a 58 minute train journey away from Amsterdam South- Dutch public transport is pretty damn punctual. I am sitting in a quiet restaurant and could not feel further away from the city that presently holds my heart- my Amsterdam. I listen to the sounds of a hopeful kitchen, preparing for the possible Sunday evening diners. Shops are closed on Sundays (across Holland in the smaller cities and towns) and little Apeldoorn’s centre is somewhat deserted. Eve croggies me here, heading on to visit with her grandmother. Nothing much will be open, she had warned, it is not Amsterdam.

We arrange to meet at this particular restaurant, chosen purely for the fact it is open, in an hour. So, itchy feet and my general disposition of curiosity in new places, I decide to wander first, revisiting the areas and shops we had perused just the day before. I retrace our steps: a ghost town now in contrast to the low key bustle of the Saturday market place and main shopping street of yesterday.

The sun was actually shining at this point and so I meandered on, adventuring further. I watched two friends enjoying an ice cream on a sun-drenched bench; a couple walking slowly, hand in hand; a child hopping and counting to 10 (I wanted to join in, as I too, was just mastering this myself this morning under the patient teachings of Eve’s mother); a lone cyclist, who as if in slow motion, biked through the town and all was quiet.

Surprised to see an intriguing looking deli open, I headed in after passing it twice. A little hungry, I managed to hit my Apeldoorn jackpot. Such a friendly young woman, seemingly in charge of this impressive Delicatessen, chatted away, interested in my story. This young deli owner, who let me sample her specialty homemade pesto on water crackers (perfect for a Friday night hors dóuever with friends, she tells me), delivers the same dialogue as many other people I have met here in little Apeldoorn: So, you are staying in Amsterdam while in Holland? Oh, yes, it is a great city- but only for a day or two. Much too fast! I am always glad to get back to the quiet of Apeldoorn. I guess I am surprised because she likes to rock out the fancy crackers on a Friday night and I somehow equate that with the cosmopolitan attitude of the big city. How could she not want to live, be or just have more than the obligatory and occasional capital city visit? But, I too, feel the same in England, returning from London or Bristol to my hometown. I can completely relate: I snuggle and settle in to the more rational pace, the lack of distance to cover and travel, everything within easy reach: my little English Apeldoorn.

As I walk away with a lovely bag of treats, I almost shake my head and laugh out loud. Wow- had I so easily become one of those ‘big city living is the only way to live’ types?? Amsterdam is all I have known (and LOVED) in Holland. I hadn’t really contemplated life further afield… This conversation, concerning big city as opposed to smaller town living is certainly something that must be echoed worldwide. I love the calm demeanor of the smaller city but god, do I miss my Amsterdam. The quiet here seems to have created some sort of tension in my neck.

I sat on a bench and unpacked my treats. It was still curious to me, that this Deli, without one customer (aside from one little random wanderer: me!), had a plethora of fresh treats in abundance, counter tops full of lovely nibbles and samples. Who in Apeldoorn would be here to eat all this delishiousness before it goes bad? I mean, I could put in a pretty good effort with the crackers and Ecuadorian chocolate but I don’t think even the dent I could make would suffice. This lovely girl had prepared a take-out box of rice with leeks and a side of vegetables, warmed up and with plastic crockery and napkins. Also packing me up with a few freebies: cocoa dusted caramel covered almonds, a sample bag of the fancy nuts she has just ordered in (I do believe that they were in a jar that was labelled ‘Weekend Nuts’) and a dessert of two little brownies for ‘my friend and I to have when she returns from meeting her grandmother.’ So sitting in the silent town, I eat and feel touched by her kindness, her interest, her generosity.

 

We return to Amsterdam tomorrow- Apeldoorn just a momentary blip in the whirlwind of our Amsterdam life. Time, however slower it seems, does not stand still in Apeldoorn. We have already experienced a lot here, even in the slower pace of existence: My honorary Dutch parents take us out on Saturday night (I do believe each Saturday in Amsterdam we have in fact opted for nights in

or a yoga class…); we go to quite possibly the most happening place in Apeldoorn- an all you can eat within two hours. It is actually really good: fresh food you can choose to be stir fried in woks in front of you and the most delish kokos mousse (coconut) of which I had two! We have gone for a run in the local neighbourhoods. Gorgeous greenery with stunning houses dotted on the perimeters of the local parks. Spring has sprung here, with the flowering bulbs and ducks all around. The birds are the only noise we hear. That and the odd car, the footsteps of one or two passer-byes and the laughter of a small child in the distance. We visit Eve’s sister and her new baby niece. We sleep in Eve’s bedroom- her in her single bed and myself, snuggled in floral bed linen on a bed on the floor. I look at old photo albums, chat and learn Dutch words with her (very patient and encouraging) mum. Her mum waits on us hand and foot. We go to bed early. We rise, sleepier from the 9-10 hours we soundly slumber. The traffic, energy and sounds of the Overtoom, sounds of the neighbours seems worlds away, not just the hop, skip and jump it actually takes (well, bike, foot, train, possibly croggy).

I realize as well that we have not climbed any serious stairs since we have resided in little old Apeldoorn. I thought thigh crunching stairs were a Dutch thing. It is a Dam thing; where living quarters, yoga studios, cinemas, restaurants, dance lessons all seem to be situated high in the cityscape and are part of the toll, the daily work out in the big city. Climbing high, multiple times a day. I fear that when we return, my new stair legs will have forgotten and the not very princess huffing and puffing will be back in full force with every climb.

 

Eve’s high school pal, Reinier,  joins us for my very first (very lovely it is too!) Dutch Sunday family dinner. He lives just around the corner. Easy. Eve’s friends in Amsterdam are spread far and wide. They mission it and select compatible calendar moments to group together for a dinner or a drink out, rarely spending time or sharing meals in their homes. Our family meal is so lovely: traditional fare with meat (salmon for non-meat eaters), potatoes, green veggies, red cabbage and apple sauce. Toasted with a lovely glass of red. Post dinner, Eve, Reinier and I enter into dangerous

territory: gaming and puzzling. The parents retire to the living room and we, the children, play games. Turns out, these two have a history of gaming and the gloves are off. New game: Wermgenner. Worms. You have to be 8 or older, be lucky with the dice, slightly strategic and a willingness to prevent fellow players from a win by stealing their worms. I am so addicted (and humbled by my loss in the gladiator arena of these Worm experts), that I challenge poor, unsuspecting Konstantinus (lovely Starbucks man) in Amsterdam the following day. I  whoop his ass-


Konstantinus is introduced to Regenwormen

he takes it pretty well, even offering to buy me some jelly worms as a reward for my win.

Reinier, although fierce in battle, blows us away with an extremely thoughtful and kind gift. A box of tricks for two princesses in  the ‘Amsterdam Jungle’.  Reminding us that life is about the little moments. His kit includes: chocolate, wine, craft items, face masks, candles and a new game of Cockroach Poker. What a beautiful box of gifts to take from Apeldoorn. We can also put into our special box the peace of a quiet town, family love and special moments.

Extremely touched and moved, we gather our bags and precious gift box the following morning. We watch the news with Eve’s parents before our mid-morning train. Barack Obama is helicoptered in to the Museum Plein, heading to the Rijksmuseum which is literally round the corner from Eve. He is met with a flurry of excitement (security controlled of course) and Eve and I look at the familiar museum and area spread across the TV. It is the first time an American President has made an official visit to Amsterdam. Den Haag (The Hague) is normally where it is at. It is kind of cool to see all the area closed off still when we cycle back from Amsterdam South just an hour later.

This flurry of energy, felt through the TV and this special event, reminds me of Eve’s arrival in the restaurant in the square of Apeldoorn, where I waited for her the day before.  I wrote: I presume Eve is delayed because of the rain showers that appear and sound very heavy. Rain can hammer it down here, the sun can shine. It will always be quieter and slower than Amsterdam, that is the nature and beauty of small towns. Then, Eve slides into the booth across from me- a flurry of energy, as if arriving on a special helicopter flight, chartered just for her. ‘Hey girl! My God, it is so quiet here!! It is FREAKING me out!” I nod, raising my eyebrows. But, like Eve’s mum said as we drove through the fairytale-esque wooded areas near the palace (the Dutch royals have a weekend home here) and Eve’s grandfather’s house: ‘Jessica, you will never forget the little town of Apeldoorn.’ Apeldoorn, charmed, a pleasure to meet you. I have loved the  hospital home of the Kollers. I will be back, Apeldoorn. But for now, home sweet home, to Overtoom 32. We pull away, on our punctual Amsterdam bound train. I smile at Eve. She smiles at me. ‘Not long now, Princess and we will be back in Amsterdam… How about a game of Cockroach Poker?’ Just two fancy little town girls, playing a game and heading home, to the big city.