24~Canada, I Could Drink a Case of You

I knew when I arrived Lakeside, Yarmouth, that life was good. I felt this part of the trip would be special but it was more than that. My ipod surprises me as I run at Cape Forchu lighthouse, 'The

Beacon to Canada'. I think it has been stuck on some loop and I may have pressed something because suddenly every song is new once more. It reminds me of Mama Wolff but most of all the words fill me with light and love, and makes me think of Canada.  'A Case of You' by Joni Mitchell starts and I am running with tears streaming down my face:

I drew a map of Canada

Oh, Canada

With your face sketched on it twice

Oh you're in my blood like holy wine

You taste so bitter and so sweet

                             Oh, I could drink a case of you, darling

                                   And I would still be on my feet

                                   Oh, I would still be on my feet...'

~Joni Mitchell

I find some spare moments in which I feel I can reflect and write. This moment is in Pleasant Bay, Cape Breton. From my last cafe spot in Wolfville, I am now writing in the mid-afternoon sunshine, overlooking the bay. Mountains blanketed in trees enclave this small serene spot and I may have the fortune of spotting a minka whale in the bay as I look up from my writing.

As epic and full as some stories have to be, I recognise I may never share all I want to. So this is a humble ode to Yarmouth, where 4 days quickly turned into 5, and Lakeside living with Linda-Marie was lovelier than I could have hoped.

Lakeside living is pretty good for the soul, that is probably pretty clear. I love the view from my bed:

Tranquil waters and skies so vast that the clouds have a never ending playground to roam, evolve and change their games was right up my street. Turns out LM is a fan of the skies too. We chased a couple sunsets in our pajamas, hopping in the car and heading out in the hopes of catching the last rays and the cloud shows over the Southern bays of Novia Scotia. 

Kinda felt Thelma and Louise-esque. Great to have a partner in crime that got the same kicks out of such particular habits: cloud appreciation, endless sky wonder and sunset gazing. 

Having this time with LM was special for a number of reasons. She has a daughter a little younger than me, Chelsea. She lives in London and of course LM misses her. I remind LM of Chelsea (physically and in spirit too) and a number of people in Yarmouth town ask LM if Chelsea is home- they see me out and about and running up near the lighthouse. I am pretty sure any guests at Lind-Marie's get the 5 star service but I have a sneaky suspicion that I receive extra special treatment. I feel like a kid but also like I have made a new best friend, we are so alike.

I look 8??

No make up and freckly- maybe more youthful because of that!

I receive that sweet edge of motherly care. I have been told before that my general disposition is quite sunny and I am a good host. Well friends, I ain't a patch on Linda-Marie. Move over, Pollyanna! This lady could make your positive outlook seem a little jaded and negative. She could outwit, annihilate in fact, Pollyanna at the grateful game any day. Rays of sunshine literally pour from her. She grabs my washing, chirping, 'It's easy, honey!' Lots of things are 'fun' and I agree- nice stamps, a new sweater and 'Bulk Barn' (apparently it has more than 4,000 products, they are all in tubs so you can acquire as much or as little as you like- I LOVE it and you can get all sorts of nut butters and different flakes- perfect for a porridge maker on the go). After LM prepares an amazing breakfast of oatmeal pancakes with maple syrup (which has been infused with cinnamon, star anise and vanilla), she sets to fetching my coffee and burns her hand. I feel awful. We run it under cold water and then we wrap ice around it, hotfooting it to the pharmacy for Advil amidst the list of things we wanted to do that day. We use a scarf to help to hold the bag of ice in place and I am apologising profusely. LM is more concerned that I am concerned; really, she reasons, what a decorative hand bracelet she now has because I have fashioned the scarfit so well. I insist on buying the Advil and run into the bakery to pick up the special Novia Scotian bread she has ordered for me to try and buy that too. She is generous in more ways than one. I feel utterly spoilt. Please LM, let me!

We  make coconut and kale cookies on our last day and we deliver little parcels to the friends I have made:

Linda-Marie takes me everywhere and I learn so much about the local area. I am convincing her to blog about Nova Scotia. She has such appreciation for the landscape and the world around her- we are perfect companions, we swim in the wonders of nature, soaking up every bit we can. We head out to lots of different secret spots she knows. The weather is heavenly, sunshine and unusual mists. LM says Nova Scotia loves me and that is why the weather is playing ball.

Just like being with pals, Lyd and Eve, we write lists of conversations that we must come back to and lists of events and plans to ensure we fit it all in. I would have never met half the amazing people, been privy to inside information on Yarmouth, the local goings on or experienced some of the wondrous spots in the area without my guide and pal. It is striking how many houses there are that are completely different in style:

But I reckon Linda-Marie has the best spot, with a priceless view:

LM had debated leaving Novia Scotia, she is originally from the States and is accustomed to city life. But Nova Scotia for the tranquility, trust and open spaces to bring up Chelsea was a draw. LM did leave at one point when her and her husband were separated; a spell living the high life in California with a rekindled love. She tells me she remembers that time as though it were yesterday, it as crisp and sharp as the long shadows that are being cast by the trees in the evening sunlight, before us on the road as we drive. As I travel this province, I realise there is a magnetism. It draws people in, back, it keeps people here. Communities that are long standing, generations of folk and people fresh and new to Nova Scotia. LM throws in a comment about a doctor living in a certain house we are admiring, explaining it was a choice between New Zealand and here. I think this is quite startling as I understand NZ to be incredibly desirable, but as much as my ears prick up at this nugget of info, I also feel an affirmation- it is as wonderful as I think, I am not in a bubbly haze of travelling euphoria, donning rose tinted glasses. A chap I meet at Lorne and Janet's says he and his wife cannot get their children to come and visit this side of Canada. They were debating upping sticks again and heading to the West Coast, nearer to their children and grandkids who are in British Columbia. But, they love it here. He said he read a book called 'Nextville' and it helped to form the decision to continue to carve their life out in Lunenberg. LM didn't read this book, but she listened to a clear message from her heart. The turbulent pro and con process filling her mind, ceased. She tells me she woke up very, very early one morning and her heart said, 'I want to be here, more than I need to be there.' She loves the space. The colours all around. The people. The friends she has. So the city girl in her- the one that like to get all dressed up and enjoy the theatre, intellectual aspects and job opportunities that a larger city tends to provide- finds happiness here (and she has been part of incredibly creative enterprises in and around Yarmouth; there is an array of art and creative talent populating this province- more about that later). Rae-Ann in Lunenberg is originally from Antigonish, in the North of Nova Scotia. She tells me that most of her friends would come back to Novia Scotia in a heartbeat but the economy is bad and the job prospects few; she is thrilled to have returned, bagging a midwifery job in the South Shore and basing herself in Lunerberg.

LM's daughter would find it hard to get a job that would lie in the areas that she has expertise, and I am unsure if she is interested in returning to reside anytime soon.Without her daughter for most of the year (although Chels loves to come home and LM loves England), she has a lovely dog Nika.

They are great companions here in this Lakeside retreat; taking their favourite daily walks, cosying by the fire and Nika even gets our leftover pancake and delicious tidbits! This is true love.

LM has a wonderful network of buddies, is so enriched by the natural world around her. Having Nika and surrounding open spaces means she has a routine that I am really into. Early get up (although I must admit I have not been as early as when I was a working girl) LM is 5:30 and I am more like 7. She heads to the Y on Main Street for a swim and has a fresh smoothie on return. I head out to the Lighthouse for a run and this becomes my little routine. Although one morning I join her at the Y, hoping to do a class called 'All Over Fit' with Barb. But Barb is unfortunately a no-show ('a rough morning at home' I am informed by another hopeful participant that comes and finds me in the gym); I pump some iron (well, 3lb weights!) and pull some Tracey moves with a local beefcake and two ladies gossiping on the treadmill. Everyone knows everyone. I am a stranger in this gym but welcome all the same.

I abstain from the Y and decide appreciating the surroundings is far superior, even though I enjoyed the experience. I run at the lighthouse (a 20 minute drive from LM's) and a curious dog finds me stretching behind a rock on the deserted beach. His owner and I chat for 20 minutes. He knows Linda and her dog, of course he does. When I speak to the Aussie fellow who runs the 'Red

Shed', a new harbourside take out eatery (hello, fish tacos), I relay the story and he knows the dude too. LM had previously told me that this 'Red Shed' guy is the husband of her vet and they decided to settle here. A foodie type venture like this has always been his dream (and again, Australia, such a great place to live and this guy resides here). Yep, everyone knows everyone here, he says knowingly. I stick out apparently. He says I look too well dressed and stylish for the area. It is this coat, must be. Otherwise I am quite dishevelled day to day. This coat of many colours that my mama gave to me. Yup, the 2 CD's I purchased for $5 in Walmart, Dolly Parton and Stevie Wonder, ring true with many songs. Parallels with my rain jacket and her 'Coat of Many Colours' lyrics. Mama Wolff may not have hand-stitched this bad boy with rags as Dolly's mama had for her- sewing is not her bag (but it was bought with the intention of protecting me from the elements, just like Dolly's coat story). She will always bring up the time she stitched all 10 ladybird costumes for my 3rd grade school play. I volunteered her, much to her dismay, but they were perfectly crafted costumes. Just like when I was up to my elbows in baking and dealing with a very raw broken heart, she stepped in to lend a hand and iced Beautiful Jess's wedding cakes; she may pretend to lack baking and crafting skill but I can never get my frosting to replicate the dreamy mounds and perfectly peaked shapes she cultivated on the cakes. The cakes went down a storm and the icing much admired. Instead of being teased like Dolly for my coat, I have had compliments left right and centre, from all corners of the world: women in the High Street in Amsterdam; a homeless man in Bristol- I thought he was asking me for money but he was actually saying he liked my coat; girls in the yoga studio in New York; ladies in the health food store in Yarmouth; the fishermen in Lunenberg and the list goes on! 

Mind you, the first day I was here, I had been for a run and was unsure if LM had coffee (silly thought- although she is not a partaker in the tipple, she of course has the loveliest of fresh beans and a grinder so I can cafetiere my morning coffee), I head to Tim Horton's to grab a take out. There is a strip of places like this (Wal-Mart, McDonald's etc) and I park and head towards the entrance. A guy is kind of loitering and seems to be observing me. I have not got my magic coat on so the last thing I expect is a compliment. I look foul and sweaty, I am quite sure. He opens the door for me. I thank him and get in the queue. I am surprised how many people are hanging out but they just love their Tim Horton's here. The door opener is behind me and I faff with my coffee and begin to head out, aware that he again is following my movements. He gets the door for me. Surely they do not employ someone to open doors at this fast food donut chain. I look at him. "Thank you, how very gentlemanly!" I say when I realise he is doing this in a courteous fashion. "Well, you sure are a mighty fair lady," he says, tipping his baseball cap and giving me a smile that reveals very few teeth. Wow. I have never been called a 'fair lady' before. I am surprised that he finds me so in my present state too. I laugh, hopefully graciously, thank him and hurry to the car. He heads off on foot down the highway. A redneck type with impeccable manners- the boys back home could learn a lesson or two. I did not even need the magic coat to draw attention to myself, he'd clocked me in the car park in sweats. Adam Wolff, will you please try this line on the ladies and see what happens? For a fair test though, you need to black out some teeth.

Everyone makes you feel special in this place and wants to hear about your plans and share stories. We have dinner with Les. He is helping LM with some gardening and has set up some allotments down in Yarmouth town. He loves my travelling plan and it spurs a trip down memory lane for Les. He had an epic drive trek across the states, undertaken in teen spirit. Over 50 years ago.  It sounds like a quite the trip- no SatNav and no sleep for days.

We have a day of shopping. I am introduced to Frenchy's, great bargain bin hunting for second hand items (the history of this store can be read in this article: Frenchy's Phenomenon), and find myself with 3 new items that if mixed make 6 new outfits (I have to be stringent, carrying crap is not fun and neither is sending expensive parcels home). Moy, I know would have a field day here and it is a reason for her to come to Canada, aside from all the other amazing attractions it has to offer.

We peruse our purchases

This is also what is great about being with LM. All these snippets of information, background on people, who built houses, who lives there and the history of different areas, buildings, beaches, coves, shops- she is a guru of local knowledge. Exciting Yarmouth news, that I learn from everyone I speak to, is the cruise ship which has just set sail on its maiden voyage: 'The majority of passengers on this worldly vessel, called the Nova Star, are expected to come from New England- namely Boston, where the ship was christened on Monday- but the biggest impact will be in the Canadian province of Nova Scotia, which took a serious hit when ferry service from Maine was halted nearly five years ago.' (read more: Article- Nova Star) 

I run on the vacant beach near the lighthouse and I see a man on his bike with a camera. Cheeky bugger. Is it that unusual to see a runner here? I kind of nod and realise he is not looking at me but beyond me. I turn my head and there she is. So close, gliding smoothly and slowly by the bay, the cruise ship. Aha. What a great view, with the morning sun glinting through the broken clouds. A special moment that I could not have timed better had I tried- the previous morning I had driven back to the lighthouse in hope of seeing her leave, but it was quite foggy. But this morning I was up so early because Nika had woken me up, wanting to go out. This 5:00 Nika alarm was actually wonderful- the crescent moon hanging like a decoration above the lake, a bright star (planet, maybe Venus?) a silent companion for the moon. 

Then, from my bed with a hot drink I watched the oranges breaking through the navy nighttime blues. It was a sight I would readily rise to see at any hour. 

And of course this earlier run then resulted in the spectacular Nova Star vision, this close up awesome shot, a run alongside this majestic ship. Yarmouth is buzzing and hopeful, I see why and I feel hope for Yarmouth too. It reminds me of Hull in many ways.

I continue to note and collect all the typically Nova Scotian things that I have to ask LM about. I love the school buses that are parked in the driveways of the houses where the drivers reside. I love the small little huts built at the end of the gardens, shelters for the children to wait for the bus in the winter months. I wonder if your parents didn't build you one, do they buddy up? Or what if yours was not as fancy as the little girl's shelter down the road?

A child disembarks the school bus and runs down the lawn- so
sweet

The small ponds in the gardens of some houses are, of course, perfect for ice skating in the winter. Rae-Ann in Lunenberg tells me her dad used to flood the garden come winter, so they had their own ice skating rink in their front yard. Cool.

I feel like I have made so many friends here. We go to Yoga in the Barn. Kerry grounds me with her teachings from India, it soothes my body which misses my daily yoga. Kabir, her partner from India, leads us through our savasana, playing an Indian instrument- the melody trails through the final meditation and into the sun set. Great fortune to happen upon this and meet women and men from around that are part of a very intimate and unique yoga community that Kerry has established. (There is other yoga around- I find it everywhere and I mean everywhere.) Two women I speak with went to India last January on a special trek/retreat that Kerry guides people on.

Kabir is a guest chef at the 'Shanty Cafe' and the veggie burgers and samosas are reputedly awesome. 

I go and the veggie burger has sold out, but I get a chickpea salad and it is so good, I go back twice more. I return to the 'Red Shed' and also hit my favourite cafe on Main Street: 'The Old Bakery Shop'. I get a little writing done but it is hard because I know so many people now, so I stop and talk to everyone. I even make friends in the cafe. They are regulars here and I arrange to meet them on my last day because Cliff wants to help me with my route as I have no set plans and want to see it all. He comes armed with a map and lots of advice. I hear him say, "Here she is!" to his wife as I rush in- LM and I are on list item 5 and this is a 30 minute interlude between plans, she will come and collect me after she is done getting some groceries. We look at the map and they help me shape my plan. LM arrives and it is hard to tear myself away. Cliff says he has something for me. He gives me 2 signed photographs. Aerial shots of the Nova Star's maiden voyage- a memento. This is what we first spoke about in the cafe a few days back- he is into aerial photography and his buddy took him out to capture the shots. Not only does he provide me with time and advice, he gives me his phone number because he would hate anything to happen to me, he says to Linda-Marie. I could almost cry, I am so touched.

We hit the post office and have chats with Shane, he helps to make Adam's birthday package look great- with fun Canadian stamps. LM was right to persist- I like to see that even my Pollyanna can get irritated when Shane's colleague makes it a little awkward for us to get the stamps but low and behold, Adam has a very fun looking parcel to arrive for his 30th.

Next, we head off to drop things off at home and take the dog to the beach. We go to an Art Gallery opening. We collect Nancy (a wonderful Acadian pal of LM's); I drop LM off before her post gallery opening so she does not miss 'Downtown Abbey' and Nancy invites me in to her home and offers to come with me in the search of a pair of cheap flat shoes for the wedding I am going to tomorrow- so kind ). I love it-the building and being part of the whole event. We see some great art. We are here for the opening of an exhibition of Yarmouth artist, Nelson Surrette: 

Some local high school and community arts colleges have an exhibition space:

This province is rich in such a tapestry of artists and the space is lovely. I am drawn to the art of Marie Webb, entitled 'Magic in her Hands'. She is a young woman with down syndrome and when asked about how she creates such pieces, she said that she had magic in her hands. 

During the speeches, I realise just what a happening moment in Yarmouth this is; the ship promises more activity, the unveiling of new art works (a living relative is also here to say a few words about the art- brilliant), the celebration of Maud Lewis and other local and provincial talents. Similar to the toads back in Hull, the houses in honour of the teeny home that Maud lived in, are dotted around Yarmouth:

The curator from the museum in Halifax speaks about putting Yarmouth on the map and how it should be duly recognised for the wonderful things it has to offer. In his speech I learn another film is in the process of being shot here, quite something. I may have failed to mention that while in Lunenberg, there was a film shoot happening- a cast and crew were shooting 'The Book of Negroes' there. I did not realise Cuba Gooding Jr was in this film! 'Alicion B&B' were asked if they could hire out the whole place for a cast member and entourage but were already committed. Nova Scotia has been used for many films, I am told by Chrissy. Chrissy had actors from a series called 'The Haven' staying at her B&B during filming sessions. I need to look into that. I watch 'The Scarlet Letter' purely because it was filmed in some of the places that I have been but Demi Moore makes it hard going. LM had pointed out the hotel where Demi stayed while on location here. It has shut down and now looks shabby. It once was not and LM hopes this will change with the restoration of the Nova Star. 

The next morning is my last. There is a buzz around town; the ship has docked. LM and I will hit the market as the Nova Star lands- her friend is arriving from New England on the ship! She waits for her and I go for one last coffee at my favourite cafe. The cafe has a little more traffic; people with maps, fresh off the boat! Great and they are loving the muffins that are arriving fresh from the baker downstairs and telling the waitress how amazing the coffee is. It is very true- the coffee is made from green beans that they roast on the premises and the muffins are unreal (chunks of apple and cinnamon, mango and coconut are some personally sampled). I walk down Main Street and head to the market. A band, locals and visitors, great provincial produce and a bustling, friendly atmosphere make it a complete winner; a perfect final Yarmouth note on which to leave.

Wow. I have hugs from the people I met, people recognise me from the art gallery and welcome me back any time, wishing me safe travels. I chat to so many great people with great stories that they want to share, particularly of travel. We bump into Kerry and other friends and all sit together for an impromptu chat and coffee.

LM says good bye and we both shed a tear. I go and see Kabir for a take out chickpea salad and jump in the car. I am heading back to Lunenberg. I have been invited back, a generous offer to stay in the 'Dragonfly Room' and join in with a wedding celebration. Amazing. I have fun filling a basket (LM thoughtfully donated to me) with local goodies to take back to lovely Lunenberg.

So as I tap away now, almost two weeks have gone by. It is lovely to write and I realise it has become epic as I let the memories wash over me. I have gone ipod less for a while so I find the song and listen to it. A new spot on the Canadian map sketched on my heart; the endless ocean with gentle ripples in the evening breeze, ever changing current lines and lobster traps bob making me wonder if I am seeing seals. I watch for the footprint of the minka in the ocean of Pleasant Bay. Such a remarkable blue, a striking blue like no other ocean I have seen. This blanket of colour, this beautiful blue in the low setting sun is bejewelled, twinkling like millions of precious gems spreading far and wide. You never know in this magical place...I may just glimpse that elusive whale skim the sapphire surface. Oh Canada,

'...I could drink a case of you, darling

   And still I'd be on my feet

   I would still be on my feet.'

~Joni Mitchell

Signing out from Pleasant Bay, Cape Breton.

Namaste ;-)